The baseboard is the visual transition between the wall and the floor, and the right baseboard depends as much on the floor as it does on the wall.
With a hardwood floor, a moderate-profile baseboard (100 to 150 millimeters, stepped or cove) in a painted white finish is the most common choice. The baseboard sits on top of the wood floor, with a small gap at the bottom that's covered by a shoe molding or a quarter round. The shoe molding is a separate piece of PU trim, typically 20 to 30 millimeters tall, that covers the expansion gap between the floor and the baseboard.
With a tile floor, the same moderate-profile baseboard sits directly on the tile, no expansion gap, no shoe molding. The baseboard is the clean visual line between the wall and the tile.
With a polished concrete or microcement floor, the baseboard typically sits directly on the floor with a silicone seal at the bottom (in wet areas) or a clean butt joint (in dry areas). A small reveal at the bottom, 5 to 10 millimeters, can be a deliberate design element.
With a carpet floor, the baseboard sits above the carpet with a small gap that's covered by the carpet itself. The baseboard height should be measured from the subfloor, not the carpet surface, so the proportions are correct.
The style of the baseboard should match the other trim in the room. A modern baseboard (flat or simple stepped) should pair with a modern chair rail and cornice. A traditional baseboard (full profile, sometimes with plinth blocks) should pair with a traditional chair rail and a layered cornice. Most factories sell baseboard in profile families that match their other trim, which makes the selection straightforward.
A practical note on the shoe molding. Many modern interiors omit the shoe molding entirely, with a clean butt joint between the baseboard and the floor. This is a deliberate design choice that works best with a flat baseboard and a hard floor. With a more traditional baseboard, the shoe molding is usually kept because it covers the expansion gap that a hardwood floor needs.
For sourcing, the right conversation with the factory is about the trim family. Buying baseboard, shoe molding, chair rail, and cornice from the same profile family ensures visual consistency and usually gets a better per-piece price than mixing sources.
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Frequently Asked Questions
Q: What is a PU skirting board?
A: A PU skirting board (also called a baseboard) is a polyurethane molding installed at the floor-to-wall transition. It protects walls from scuffs and vacuum damage while delivering a clean architectural edge. PU skirting is waterproof, impact-resistant, and far lighter than the equivalent timber profile.
Q: How do you install Baseboard molding selection guide?
A: Cut Baseboard molding selection guide with a fine-tooth miter saw. Apply construction adhesive in a continuous bead along the back, press to the wall, and tack with finish nails into studs where possible. Mitre joints at inside and outside corners, fill with spackle, sand, and apply two coats of paint. PU skirting requires no sanding of the face — it arrives primed.
Q: Can PU skirting be used in wet areas?
A: Yes. PU skirting is fully waterproof and ideal for bathrooms, kitchens, and basements. Use a polyurethane adhesive (not water-based) and seal the bottom edge to the floor with a thin bead of clear silicone in wet zones to prevent mop water from wicking under the profile.
Q: What height skirting board should I choose?
A: Standard residential skirting heights are 60–100 mm (2.4–4 inches). For modern interiors, taller profiles (120–150 mm / 5–6 inches) deliver a more contemporary look and visually raise the perceived ceiling height. Heritage and Victorian restorations typically use 150–200 mm (6–8 inches) with a stepped or ogee profile.