A cornice profile is just the cross-section of the trim. Get the cross-section right and everything else — material, length, finish — follows from practical questions about the job.
Profiles are described in two ways. The first is a verbal family name (stepped, coved, dentil, egg-and-dart, layered). The second is a drawing — usually a 1:1 cross-section in the catalog. When you source from a factory, the drawing is what matters: a 1:1 PDF of the exact profile you want is the single most useful document in the entire process.
A few things that surprise first-time buyers. Profiles are almost always made from a master tool — typically aluminum or brass — and the cost of that tool is amortized into the price over a minimum run length. A factory will quote a profile and then quote a minimum order quantity in linear meters; below that number, the unit price jumps because the tool cost is spread over fewer pieces. For stock profiles, the tool cost is already paid off, which is why stock runs cheaper than custom.
Profile flexibility varies. A stepped profile with sharp 90-degree corners is rigid. A wide cove profile with a smooth curve has a small amount of flex — useful on slightly out-of-true ceilings, but not enough to wrap a radius wall. For curved walls, you need a genuinely flexible profile, which is a different product line.
Length per piece is usually 2.4 meters for shipping efficiency in standard containers, though 3-meter pieces are increasingly common. Longer pieces mean fewer joints on the ceiling, but they're harder to handle on site.
Surface finish out of the mold is a matte off-white primer, sanded smooth. Ready for paint within a day of install. The factory can also supply pre-finished white in higher-quantity runs if your project doesn't need a specific color.
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Frequently Asked Questions
Q: What is Polyurethane cornice profiles?
A: Everything You Need to Know About Polyurethane Cornice Profiles is a high-density polyurethane (PU) cornice moulding produced by injection molding. It delivers the period-correct look of plaster cornice at a fraction of the weight, arrives factory-primed and paint-ready, and is 100% waterproof — making it suitable for living rooms, bedrooms, hotels, and covered exterior applications.
Q: How do you install Polyurethane cornice profiles?
A: Cut Polyurethane cornice profiles with a fine-tooth miter saw (40+ teeth), apply polyurethane construction adhesive such as PL Premium in a zigzag pattern, and press firmly against a primed wall/ceiling joint. Tack with finish nails while the adhesive cures. Mitre joints at inside and outside corners, fill with lightweight spackle, sand smooth, and finish with two coats of interior latex paint.
Q: Can PU cornice moulding be used in bathrooms and kitchens?
A: Yes. PU cornice is a closed-cell polymer and is fully waterproof — it will not swell, warp, or encourage mildew the way MDF or softwood does. For full-splash zones (above a shower), seal the back of the profile with a thin bead of silicone during installation to prevent moisture wicking from the substrate.
Q: What is the typical lead time and MOQ for Polyurethane cornice profiles?
A: Stock profiles of Polyurethane cornice profiles typically ship within 7–15 days from our Dongguan factory in standard 2.0–2.4 m lengths. MOQ is usually 200 linear meters per profile per shipment. Custom profiles require new tooling (25–35 days) and a 500 m MOQ. Free samples are available with freight collect.