Traditional baseboards are the most developed category in the catalog, and the installation requires more care than a modern baseboard. The profile has more detail, the joints are more visible, and the finish has to bring out the geometry.
The most common traditional profile is a two- or three-step baseboard with a plinth, a torus or ovolo middle, and a cap. The profile is 100 to 200 millimeters tall, and the geometry catches light and shadow in a way that a flat strip doesn't. The installer's job is to make sure the profile reads consistently along the entire wall, which means the wall has to be flat and the baseboard has to sit flush.
A plinth block at the door is a traditional detail. The plinth block is the same material as the baseboard, typically 80 to 150 millimeters tall and 30 to 50 millimeters wide, installed on both sides of the door at the base. The baseboard butts into the plinth block instead of mitering at the door, which is faster and results in a tighter joint.
The install sequence for a traditional baseboard starts with the plinth blocks. The plinth blocks are installed first, at the correct height and aligned with the planned baseboard top edge. The baseboard runs between the plinth blocks, with butt joints at each end. The corners (inside and outside) are coped or mitered as appropriate.
Coping inside corners is the traditional approach. The first piece is cut square and installed. The second piece is coped — its profile is cut to match the profile of the first piece, so the two pieces fit together with no visible gap, even when the building moves seasonally. A coping saw and a steady hand are the tools.
Mitering outside corners is the standard. Both pieces are cut at 45 degrees, the joint is glued, and the joint is reinforced with a finish nail through the joint. The miter should be cut slightly long and then sanded to a tight line. The factory can pre-miter outside corners for an extra cost; worth specifying for large projects.
A practical note on finishing. The traditional baseboard profile has more surface area than a modern one, and the painter's job takes longer. The first coat of topcoat should be brushed into all the profile details; the second coat can be sprayed or rolled. A high-density PU baseboard holds the detail well, and the paint brings out the geometry.
For sourcing, traditional baseboards are usually sold as part of a coordinated trim family. The same factory that makes the baseboard also makes the matching chair rail, cornice, and door casing. Buying the family at once is the most efficient approach for a traditional interior.
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Frequently Asked Questions
Q: What is a PU skirting board?
A: A PU skirting board (also called a baseboard) is a polyurethane molding installed at the floor-to-wall transition. It protects walls from scuffs and vacuum damage while delivering a clean architectural edge. PU skirting is waterproof, impact-resistant, and far lighter than the equivalent timber profile.
Q: How do you install Traditional baseboard styles and how to install?
A: Cut Traditional baseboard styles and how to install with a fine-tooth miter saw. Apply construction adhesive in a continuous bead along the back, press to the wall, and tack with finish nails into studs where possible. Mitre joints at inside and outside corners, fill with spackle, sand, and apply two coats of paint. PU skirting requires no sanding of the face — it arrives primed.
Q: Can PU skirting be used in wet areas?
A: Yes. PU skirting is fully waterproof and ideal for bathrooms, kitchens, and basements. Use a polyurethane adhesive (not water-based) and seal the bottom edge to the floor with a thin bead of clear silicone in wet zones to prevent mop water from wicking under the profile.
Q: What height skirting board should I choose?
A: Standard residential skirting heights are 60–100 mm (2.4–4 inches). For modern interiors, taller profiles (120–150 mm / 5–6 inches) deliver a more contemporary look and visually raise the perceived ceiling height. Heritage and Victorian restorations typically use 150–200 mm (6–8 inches) with a stepped or ogee profile.