A crosshead is the horizontal element applied above the head casing of a door, designed to add a substantial horizontal line to the entryway. The crosshead is a traditional architectural element, used in formal traditional interiors to add weight and presence to the door.
The most common crosshead is a simple flat or stepped profile, 100 to 250 millimeters tall, applied above the head casing. The crosshead extends slightly beyond the side casings on each side, with a small return (the part that turns back into the wall). The crosshead is the same material as the side casings, with the same finish.
A second common crosshead is a more developed profile, with a cove, a fillet, or a small decorative band. The crosshead is more substantial than a simple flat profile, and it adds a classical detail to the top of the door.
A third common crosshead is a paneled crosshead, with a raised or recessed panel in the face. The panel adds detail to the crosshead, and the door reads as a more substantial architectural element.
A fourth common crosshead is a breakfront crosshead, with a central projecting element and two side returns. The breakfront adds depth to the crosshead, and the door reads as a designed element.
A fifth common crosshead is a crosshead with a pediment above. The crosshead is the base element, and a pediment (triangular, segmental, or broken) is applied above the crosshead. The combination is a substantial architectural feature, used in formal traditional interiors.
For sourcing, PU crossheads are a stock product at most factories that produce classical trim. The crossheads are available in a range of standard designs and sizes, with quick lead times and competitive pricing. Custom designs are available on longer lead times.
A practical install note: the crosshead is installed above the head casing, with construction adhesive and a few screws into the wall studs or blocking. The crosshead is heavier than a casing (a 1.5 meter crosshead can weigh 5 to 10 kilograms), and the install may require a helper. The wall behind the crosshead should be checked for adequate structure.
A practical note on the right crosshead for the right room. The crosshead's design should be coordinated with the room's other trim and the door's other elements. A simple flat crosshead in a Federal room reads as understated; an elaborate paneled crosshead in a modern room reads as out of place. The selection should be deliberate.
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Frequently Asked Questions
Q: What is polyurethane (PU) decorative material?
A: Polyurethane (PU) decorative material is a high-density closed-cell polymer molded into architectural profiles such as cornices, ceiling medallions, wall panels, columns, and skirting boards. It replicates the appearance of plaster, carved wood, or stone at one-quarter the weight, is fully waterproof, impact-resistant, and arrives factory-primed for paint.
Q: How does PU compare with plaster and wood mouldings?
A: PU is lighter than plaster (no scaffolding required), impact-resistant during transport, and immune to cracking. Compared with wood, PU does not warp, split, or attract termites, and it tolerates moisture in bathrooms and kitchens. The trade-off: PU cannot be refinished the way solid wood can, but its lifespan is 20–30+ years with minimal maintenance.
Q: How do you cut and finish PU mouldings?
A: Cut PU mouldings with a fine-tooth miter saw (40+ teeth for a 10-inch blade) to avoid chipping the molded edge. Sand the cut edge with 220-grit, then apply two coats of interior latex paint. Mitre joints at corners, fill seams with lightweight spackle, sand smooth, and finish with one final top coat.
Q: Is PU moulding safe for indoor air quality?
A: Yes. Premium PU mouldings are manufactured without formaldehyde, asbestos, or VOCs. They meet EN 13501-1 Class E fire classification as a minimum, with Class B fire-retardant versions available for commercial projects. The factory-applied water-based primer further reduces off-gassing once installed.